What makes Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano? Rules risk fossilising a cheese that has seen a lot of evolution

Great wheels of parmesan cheese, stamped all about with codes and official-looking markings, loudly shout that they are the real thing: Parmigiano-Reggiano DOP. They’re backed by a long list of rules and regulations that the producers must obey in order to qualify for the seal of approval, rules that were …