Eat This Podcast
Talking about anything around food

Farming’s Overlords Twenty-first century serfdom

14 April 2025 Filed under: Tags: ,

Size and market concentration lock farmers onto a technological treadmill that does nobody any good, excpet for the giant corporations and their shareholders

The Jolly Green Giant reclining in front of tiny farmers, except he is red and has cloven hooves.

Portrait of a woman with shoulder-length light brown hair wearing blue-framed spectacles
Jennifer Clapp
The top four companies globally control more than 60% of the inputs modern farmers need: machinery, fertilisers, seeds, and pesticides. That kind of concentration, coupled with their size, gives these companies unprecedented power to set prices, often in collusion with their “competitors,” to block real competition, to stifle innovation, and to manipulate governments and policies. And while that may seem a problem of modern times, it’s actually a story that goes back to the beginning of industrial agriculture. Jennifer Clapp, Canada Research Chair in Global Food Security and Sustainability at the University of Waterloo in Ontario undertook a deep investigation of the history and behaviour of these companies for her new book Titans of Industrial Agriculture: how a few giant corporations came to dominate the farm sector and why it matters.

Notes

  1. Jennifer Clapp’s book Titans of Industrial Agriculture: how a few giant corporations came to dominate the farm sector and why it matters is published by The MIT Press.
  2. This recent article by Jennifer Clapp sets out some of her views on how to address global hunger, including ideas on reining in corporate concentration.
  3. Here is the transcript.

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Quinoa’s rise and fall What goes up will come down

17 March 2025 Filed under: Tags: ,

A new book looks beyond the hype to chronicle the effect of an unsustainable boom on the entire quinoa trade in Peru

Quinoa growing in the foreground with steep mountains behind. In the sky above the valley is a graph of the price of quinoa

Portrait of a young woman with shoulder-length light brown hair. She is wearing a dark round-necked top and a necklace.
Emma McDonnell
For most of the 2000s, farmers in Peru earned a little more than one sol per kilogram of unprocessed quinoa they sold. Starting around 2007, the price began to climb as quinoa exports became a thing, averaging 9 soles per kg in 2014. The following year, the price halved, and it dropped again in 2016. It’s still around 4 soles per kg, so a lot better than it was, and quinoa production is double what it was. Nevertheless, the early promise of a sustained quinoa boom proved to be an illusion.

Emma McDonnell was in Peru for the early years of the boom and for the subsequent bust, a story she recounts in her book The Quinoa Bust.

Notes

  1. Emma McDonnell has a website. Her book The Quinoa Bust: The Making and Unmaking of an Andean Miracle Crop is published by California University Press.
  2. A previous episode — It is OK to eat quinoa — looked at the impact of the boom in purely economic terms.
  3. An issue of the USDA’s Choices magazine looked at several so-called functional foods, including quinoa, asking whether they were a Fad or Path to Prosperity?. Both, maybe.
  4. Here is the transcript
  5. The banner photo uses a picture of quinoa growing in Ollantaytambo, Peru by Hector Montero. The quinoa close up on the cover is by Flickered!

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Forbidden: Jews and the Pig “The Signifying Swine”

3 March 2025 Filed under: Tags: , ,

“The more that the pig comes to signify Jewish identity, the more it comes to signify Christian identity, and vice versa.”

An advertisement for Burger King kosher "bacon" in Israel. A smiling young man wearing a Burger King paper crown holds a "bacon" burger. He has the long sidelocks that signify an observant religious Jew.

Head and shoulders portrait. A smiling man with spectacles, short gray hair and a long gray beard, wearing a blue check shirt and riddish tie.
Jordan Rosenblum
Perhaps the only thing most people know about Jewish dietary laws is that pork is forbidden. A new book asks why the pig — rather than any of the other animals banned by the Hebrew bible — should have become so inextricably bound up with Jewish identity. Author Jordan Rosenblum points out that at the time of the Roman occupation, the pig was “simply the most commonly encountered nonkosher quadruped.” The imagined qualities of the pig and those of the Jews aligned, a link that still survives in anti-semitic propaganda.

I didn’t want to rehash the history of anti-semitism but I did want to know more about the relationship between pork and Jewish identity. I hope you will too.

Notes

  1. Forbidden: A 3,000-Year History of Jews and the Pig is published by New York University Press.
  2. Jordan D. Rosenblum is the Belzer Professor of Classical Judaism at the University of Wisconsin-Madison.
  3. Cover art is a reproduction from a 19th century book about customs of the Middle Ages. The banner image is from a campaign by the Debby Agency for Burger King. I am told (by ChatGPT) that the Hebrew says “And may the house be filled with the smell of turkey bacon”.
  4. Here is the transcript.

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Food facts are not the answer to fear of foods A deficit of understanding

17 February 2025 Filed under: Tags: ,

“What kind of food system do we want for the future? What kind of questions should we be asking? Whose questions matter? What kind of questions matter and what kind of expertise is considered relevant to the question of what the future of food should be like?”

A cartoon of a sterotypical Mom and a stereotypical food scientist shouting at one another through megaphones

Portrait of a msiling woman with curly medium length hair in front of an abstract orange and yellow background
Charlotte Biltekoff

A new book takes a close look at people’s concerns about processed foods and how the processed food industry has failed to respond to them. The author, Charlotte Biltekoff, says she wanted to try and understand what was happening around her, as people in her milieu came more and more to demand real food rather than processed foods, while the makers of processed foods failed to understand the deeper reasons underpinning those demands. Industry wants consumers who, reassured on questions of safety and risk, will buy and eat its products. People want answers to questions beyond safety and risk. And never the twain shall meet.

Notes

  1. Real Food, Real Facts: processed food and the politics of knowledge is available from the University of California Press.
  2. Other effects notwithstanding, a primary reason to avoid UPFs is that they encourage you to eat more.
  3. Here is the transcript.
  4. Thanks ChatGPT for sharing your stereotypical vision of a Mom and a Female Scientist.

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Food, folklore and St Brigid The start of spring is a time for celebration

3 February 2025 Filed under: Tags:

“On the eve of a quarter day, the time is liminal, so there’s kind of a thinning of the space between the real world and the other world.”

Five different St Brigid crosses

An icon of St Brigid wearing a blue cloak and with symbols of food and farming

St Brigid of Kildare is one of the three patron saints of Ireland and has a strong connection with food and farming. St Brigid’s day falls on 1 February and traditionally marks the beginning of spring and the start of the agricultural year.

In 2023, the Republic of Ireland designated the day a public holiday if it falls on a Friday, and failing that the first Monday of February, but the day has long been celebrated in a variety of ways. People make St Brigid’s crosses to a variety of traditional designs, using them to protect farm animals and ensure a good harvest. There are special foods too, and other ritual celebrations, some of which delve in the pagan past.

Caitríona Nic Philibin has studied the folklore surrounding St Brigid and shared some of the stories with me.

Notes

  1. I am indebted to Caitríona Nic Philibin and Máirtín Mac Con Iomaire for their work on food and folklore in Ireland, and especially An exploratory study of food traditions associated with Imbolg (St. Brigid’s Day) from The Irish Schools’ Folklore Collection. They offered a summary of their work: What food is associated with St Brigid’s Day?. And Pishogues, Brídeogs And Butter Witches at The Common Table gives a great deal more detail on food and folklore in Ireland.
  2. The music at the start is from St. Brigid’s Jig by Louise Mulcahy. Another fine tune from the same set is St. Brigid’s Day by Caitlín Nic Gabhann.
  3. Images of St Brigid’s crosses from the National Museum of Ireland. The icon of St Brigid I lifted from The Brigidine Sisters.
  4. Here is the transcript.

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