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35 thoughts on Eat This Newsletter 114 Wring out the old

  • AgroBioDiverse commented 5 years ago.

    @naomiduguid My thoughts on that paper are in the latest Eat This Newsletter eatthispodcast.com/eat-this-newsl…

    @rachellaudan @OxfordFoodSymp @pdiff1

  • Wendy Shillam 🕷 #Nutrition commented 5 years ago.

    Ah! That is interesting. Thanks.






  • Bill Price commented 5 years ago.

    Interestingly, most of the rustic “peasant” breads I’ve seen tend towards the red end.






  • Bill Price commented 5 years ago.

    Height width is an indicator of volume, or in baker parlance, oven spring. The red color are flat squat loaves, not usually appreciated by most consumers, while the purple loaves would be more upright and, I’m guessing, probably more open crumb.






  • Wendy Shillam 🕷 #Nutrition commented 5 years ago.

    It mentions the height/width issue in the text. I’m not a wheat growing expert so was hoping someone could illucidate for me.






  • Eat This Podcast commented 5 years ago.

    Not sure what you mean when you say “height is significant”. Are you talking about the height/width ratio of the loaf, which is what this graph shows? Plant height is significantly heritable, as expected, but the paper says nothing else about it.




  • Eat This Podcast commented 5 years ago.

    Actually, it isn’t. Its title is “Breeding F1 hybrid varieties of vegetables”.




  • Wendy Shillam 🕷 #Nutrition commented 5 years ago.

    Yes, this is a general article about all plant breeding.






  • Eat This Podcast commented 5 years ago.

    I thought we were talking about varieties of wheat.




  • Bill Price commented 5 years ago.

    Chad Robertson and Dan Barber with the WSU Bread Lab have (nymag.com/intelligencer/…). I think we live in a time where so called ‘developed’ western cultures now have the luxury to turn their attention to other qualities outside of yield and production.






  • Wendy Shillam 🕷 #Nutrition commented 5 years ago.

    This is probably the nub of the findings. Interesting that height is significant. I can’t see Eikorn (probably too ‘old’ for this study). Not my field so anyone who can link these breeds to modern suppliers gets a gold star.






  • Bill Price commented 5 years ago.

    Ha! Well fortunately, you don’t have to do that. While science may capture the chemical/physical diffs, discerning better/worse is not measurable in that context & is out of my professional venue. My non professional side, however, agrees with @Rooftopvegplot. I like Einkorn. 🙂






  • Wendy Shillam 🕷 #Nutrition commented 5 years ago.

    PS I’ve now posted the original article here dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.food… (via @Mendeley_com)






  • Wendy Shillam 🕷 #Nutrition commented 5 years ago.

    It’s funny that none has twigged that flavour might be a breeding winner?






  • Wendy Shillam 🕷 #Nutrition commented 5 years ago.

    I’m declaring an interest here. As a nutritionist I recognise the nutritional inferiority of all white bread, even expensive sourdoughs. (From my website) saytomato.org/2019/12/04/hea…






  • Wendy Shillam 🕷 #Nutrition commented 5 years ago.

    I think we do. Modern fruit and veg are bred for “marketable yield, which is largely determined by uniformity and quality” tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.108…. Quality may occasionally be linked to flavour but is much more likely to be about look and keeping quality.






  • Eat This Podcast commented 5 years ago.

    Very valuable. Those standardised German descriptors as used by the expert panel might be worth exploring.



  • Eat This Podcast commented 5 years ago.

    Do we know that for a fact? A fact that would satisfy a statistician?




  • Naomi Duguid commented 5 years ago.

    At the Grain Gathering, so relatively professional. Not trying to rank them, just trying to get them to identify flavors and find descriptors. Valuablw first steps.





  • OxfordFoodSymp commented 5 years ago.

    Flavour is important. More apparent when you use wholemeal, and single varietal flour






  • Wendy Shillam 🕷 #Nutrition commented 5 years ago.

    True. Sadly all old varieties tend to taste better!






  • Bill Price commented 5 years ago.

    Certainly wholegrain makes a difference. It would be interesting to see if “white” flour forms were different. I wouldn’t rule out varieties, however. Wheat has primarily been bred for yield, milling, & baking qualities, not taste. That’s relatively unexplored.






  • Bill Price commented 5 years ago.

    Sorry, the statistician (and baker) in me is curious. :-)





  • Bill Price commented 5 years ago.

    Interesting. The descriptors, and more importantly, the quantification of those, is pretty crucial and difficult to do as we all “taste” things differently and whatever consensus we may have is fluid over time. Were these taste panels? Consumer or professional?





  • Naomi Duguid commented 5 years ago.

    This was at the Grain Gathering some years ago. People had not treated single varietal wheats or other grains. We were trying to develop descriptors





  • Wendy Shillam 🕷 #Nutrition commented 5 years ago.

    I think the most important contribution modern bakers can make to bread is to go back to wholemeal production, preserving massively more nutrients than refined. My bet is that also preserves far more flavour, texture and aroma than any minor fiddling with strains.






  • Naomi Duguid commented 5 years ago.

    Oh yes!





  • Eat This Podcast commented 5 years ago.

    We’re there clear hedonic preferences for specific varieties?



  • Naomi Duguid commented 5 years ago.

    We did a taste comparison of single varietal wheats. Clear taste diffs, and also between Red Fifes grown in three different terroirs #wheat





  • Bill Price commented 5 years ago.

    “What I’d really like to see is a study of modern wheats versus truly old wheats under a range of fermentation timescales.”

    Yes, this would be very interesting. Also grown in multiple locations as that is likely as or more influential.





  • Rachel Laudan mentioned this post 5 years ago.

    Another example of why it’s so important to be careful with words. @EatPodcast is older than German researchers ‘old’
    wheat, I’m as old as some breadmakers’ heirloom wheats.

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